What little I could find was not particularly convincing either. When I started looking for related references, however, I was surprised by how little was known. Because the confection is not broadly known outside of the French-speaking northeast of the American continent, I also wanted to provide some cultural and historical context along with the technical presentation. Therefore, when I was asked to contribute a chapter for the Handbook of Molecular Gastronomy, I immediately thought of writing something about sucre à la crème. In short, the grained confection is crumbly while the caramel is very sticky, even though we make the two from the same ingredients, mixed in the same proportions, and heated to the same temperature. Contrasting it with soft caramel illustrates vividly (and tastefully) the importance of sugar microstructure on mouthfeel. PC: I have used sucre à la crème in countless courses and public demonstrations about the science of cooking. How did you get interested in this topic and doing historical research? MT: Your primary areas of academic research and teaching are chemistry. Sucre à la crème is also special to me because my late great-aunt, who lived upstairs from my parents, used to make me some when I was young. The connection of the confection with its maple sugar history has therefore been largely severed. What differentiates sucre à la crème from other maple sugar-based confections is that most contemporary recipes for it use unrefined sugars that are not maple based, such as brown sugar. In a structural sense, it is akin to fudge, albeit without chocolate. Sucre à la crème is a grained confection that was historically made of maple sugar and cream (or possibly other sources of milkfat).
I’m thrilled to be discussing this topic with you. Can you describe what sucre à la crème is and what makes it different from other maple sugar-based confections? MT: We first became acquainted through your search for early recipes for sucre à la crème. Charbonneau’s corner of the world of maple syrup history, what he has learned, how that came to be, and where it is going. Charbonneau (PC) which is designed to inform interested readers about Dr. Maple Syrup History website creator Matthew Thomas (MT) recently had the pleasure of conducting the following email interview with Dr. Patrick Charbonneau is a Montréal-born professor of chemistry at Duke University and a historian of the maple sugar confection known as sucre à la crème, or maple cream (candy). Patrick Charbonneau – Courtesy of Duke Newsĭr.
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